Kawerau is a dynamic district in the Bay of Plenty, New Zealand, celebrated as the gateway to the majestic Tarawera Falls. Renowned for its geothermal activity, rich Māori heritage, and world-class whitewater kayaking on the Tarawera River, it offers travelers a unique blend of affordable eco-tourism, industrial history, and authentic community warmth.
Often bypassed by tourists rushing between Rotorua and Whakatāne, Kawerau is currently undergoing a significant transformation. Once viewed primarily as an industrial mill town, it is rapidly re-establishing itself as the adventure capital of the Eastern Bay of Plenty. With the iconic Mount Putauaki standing guard and the Tarawera River cutting through its heart, a visit to Kawerau offers an unpretentious, high-adrenaline, and scenic experience that differs vastly from the commercialized tourism of its neighbors.
The Gateway to Tarawera Falls: A National Treasure
The primary driver for many who choose to visit Kawerau is undoubtedly the Tarawera Falls. Hidden deep within the private forestry lands, this spectacular natural feature sees the Tarawera River vanish underground before bursting dramatically out of a fissure in the cliff face.
Securing Your Access Permits
Unlike many public DOC tracks in New Zealand, the road to Tarawera Falls traverses private forestry land. To visit, you must obtain a permit. This system helps manage traffic and safety in a working forest environment. Visitors can easily purchase these permits at the Kawerau i-SITE Visitor Information Centre on Plunket Street. The staff there provide essential maps and safety briefings, ensuring you navigate the logging roads safely. The cost is nominal, usually around $5 to $10 per vehicle, making it one of the most affordable premium natural attractions in the country.
The Waterfall Walk Experience
The journey to the falls is an adventure in itself. After a scenic drive through the pine forests, you arrive at the trailhead. The walk is a relatively easy 20-minute stroll to the viewing area, meandering alongside the crystal-clear river. For the more adventurous, the track continues upward to the outlet of Lake Tarawera. This advanced hike, taking approximately two hours one way, offers a diverse range of native flora, including Rimu and Pohutukawa, and provides stunning views back down the valley. The water clarity here is legendary—often described as “gin-clear”—allowing you to see trout swimming lazily in the deep pools.
Whitewater and Mountain Adventures
While the falls offer tranquility, the Tarawera River offers adrenaline. Kawerau is a purpose-built venue for whitewater enthusiasts, boasting a reputation that attracts kayakers and rafters from across the globe.
World-Class Whitewater Slalom
The Tarawera River is unique because its flow is often regulated, ensuring consistent water levels for recreation. The town features a dedicated whitewater slalom course that has hosted World Championship events. Whether you are an elite kayaker or a spectator, the energy at the river’s edge is palpable. Several commercial operators run rafting trips on the river, ranging from family-friendly grade 2 rapids to heart-pounding grade 3 and 4 sections. The “Fish & Chips” rapid is a local legend that challenges even experienced paddlers.
Climbing Mount Putauaki
Dominating the skyline is Mount Putauaki (Mt Edgecumbe), a volcanic cone that holds immense spiritual significance for the local Māori iwi, Ngāti Awa, and Ngāti Tūwharetoa. It is not a public park; it is a sacred maunga. Access is restricted and generally only allowed during organized events, such as the famous King of the Mountain race. However, select guided cultural tours are beginning to open up this experience, allowing visitors to summit the mountain respectfully. The view from the top offers a 360-degree panorama of the Bay of Plenty, stretching from White Island (Whakaari) in the ocean to the snowy peaks of the central plateau on a clear day.
Geothermal Wonders and Cultural Heritage
Kawerau sits squarely on the Taupō Volcanic Zone, and the earth here is alive. This geothermal energy is the engine room of the town, powering the massive Tasman mill and providing a unique lifestyle benefit to residents and visitors alike.
The Maurie Kjar Memorial Swimming Pool
One of the best-kept secrets in the Bay of Plenty is the Kawerau municipal pool complex. Unlike expensive spa resorts in neighboring towns, entry here is free. The complex includes a large outdoor pool, a children’s splash pad, and two large spa pools, all heated by natural geothermal steam. It is a community hub where travelers can soak their weary muscles after a hike at Tarawera Falls alongside locals, fostering a genuine connection with the town’s people.
Māori Culture and History
The area is rich in history, with settlements dating back centuries. The interaction between the tangata whenua (people of the land) and the geothermal resources is a fascinating aspect of local heritage. While the town itself was established in the 1950s to service the paper mill, the cultural roots go much deeper. Visitors should look for the intricate carvings at the town center and the RangiDelamere Pavilion, which tell the stories of the ancestors and the volcanic landscapes.
The Lifestyle Renaissance: Living in the Eastern Bay
Recently, search intent for “Kawerau” has shifted from purely tourism to relocation. The town is experiencing a renaissance, driven by remote workers and retirees fleeing the high housing costs of Tauranga and Auckland.
Why Move to Kawerau?
The value proposition is undeniable. Kawerau offers some of the most affordable housing in the North Island, yet it is centrally located—less than an hour from the beaches of Whakatāne and the lakes of Rotorua. The town enjoys a unique micro-climate; sheltered by the hills, it often records the highest temperatures in New Zealand during summer and boasts low wind speeds.
For retirees, the flat geography of the town makes it walkable and accessible. For remote workers, the installation of high-speed fibre internet throughout the district has removed the barriers to connectivity. The “mill town” stigma is fading as new cafes, renovated homes, and a younger demographic breathe new life into the streets.
Practical Guide: Accommodation and Logistics
Planning your visit requires knowing where to stay and how to get around. While Kawerau is not packed with five-star hotels, it offers excellent options for the independent traveler.
Accommodation Options
Firmin Lodge: Located near the river, this is a popular spot for groups and sports teams, but also caters to travelers looking for clean, budget-friendly lodging.
Motorhome Friendly: Kawerau is an RV-friendly town. There are designated freedom camping spots (check local bylaws) and a well-equipped holiday park. The Prideaux Park area is particularly popular for self-contained vehicles, offering proximity to the town center and the free swimming pools.
Getting There
Kawerau is situated off State Highway 34.
- From Rotorua: A 50-minute drive past picturesque lakes.
- From Whakatāne: A quick 30-minute drive inland.
- From Tauranga: Approximately 1 hour and 15 minutes via the Eastern Link.
There is limited public transport, so a private vehicle is highly recommended to access the forest roads and surrounding attractions.
Major Events and Community Spirit
To truly understand the heart of the Eastern Bay, try to time your visit with one of the town’s signature events. These festivals showcase the community spirit that defines Kawerau.
Kawerau Woodfest
Celebrating the town’s forestry heritage, Woodfest is a high-octane event featuring woodchopping competitions, chainsaw carving, and mountain bike races. It attracts competitors from around the world and transforms the town into a bustling carnival of skill and strength.
King of the Mountain
This grueling race up and down Mount Putauaki is legendary in New Zealand’s trail running community. Even if you aren’t competing, the atmosphere at the finish line is electric. It is one of the rare occasions when public access to the mountain is fully open, making it a bucket-list event for many hikers.
People Also Ask (PAA)
Is Kawerau worth visiting?
Absolutely. Kawerau is worth visiting for the Tarawera Falls alone, which is one of New Zealand’s most spectacular waterfalls. Beyond that, the town offers free geothermal hot pools, world-class whitewater rafting, and serves as a quiet, affordable base for exploring the wider Bay of Plenty region without the crowds of Rotorua.
How do I get a permit for Tarawera Falls?
You must purchase an access permit to drive on the private forestry roads leading to the falls. These can be obtained in person at the Kawerau i-SITE Visitor Information Centre located on Plunket Street. The cost is low (typically $5-$10), and the staff will provide you with a map and safety instructions.
Can you swim in Tarawera Falls?
Swimming directly under the waterfall is dangerous and generally discouraged due to the force of the water and falling rocks. However, there are several calm swimming holes along the Tarawera River track and at the designated swimming spots near the bridge where the water is clear and refreshing.
What is the best time of year to visit Kawerau?
The summer months (December to March) are ideal as Kawerau often experiences the highest temperatures in the region, perfect for swimming and river activities. However, autumn is also beautiful for hiking, and the geothermal pools are particularly enjoyable during the cooler winter months.
How far is Kawerau from Rotorua?
Kawerau is approximately 55 kilometers (34 miles) from Rotorua. The drive takes about 45 to 50 minutes via State Highway 30 and State Highway 34, passing by Lake Rotoiti and Lake Rotomā, making it an easy day trip.
Is Kawerau safe for tourists?
Yes, Kawerau is generally safe for tourists. Like any town, it is wise to lock your vehicle and secure valuables. The community is known for being tight-knit and welcoming. The main tourist areas, such as the pools, the i-SITE, and the falls car park, are frequented by visitors and locals alike without significant issues.